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I've installed wordpress MU, and established a different site in my domain/dev/sitename -- but I want to then install a theme on that site, and edit it directly. However, my FTP only shows the main Wordpress installation. How do I get at the /sitename subdirectory?

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You don't need to get to the /sitename sub-directory. You install the theme in the themes sub-directory, and enable it for all sites. WPMU doesn't have an out-of-the-box capability to enable a theme for one site only, but I there might be plugins that give that functionality.

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Yes, you can enable the theme for one site only, out of the box... But, are you refering to WPMU or to Multisite? – brasofilo Jan 27 '13 at 15:17
@brasofilo I'm referring to WPMU, thanks for helping me clarify. – Lea Cohen Jan 27 '13 at 19:16

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